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It’s all about me


Normally I am a modest sort of fellow, having much to be modest about. However, the idea here is not only to introduce myself but to promote myself as well. Here goes.

         I am a travel columnist. For more than a decade I have written a weekly piece for the travel section of the newspaper Reforma; it is now syndicated. In addition, I contribute reports on the hospitality industry to every issue of Turistampa, Invertour and Dimensión Turistica, plus occasional pieces for The News and Baja Traveler. On occasion I have been referred to as the dean of travel writers in Mexico (which merely means I am the oldest), and as the most widely-read and the most-respected, flattering but possibly true.

         What I do is write about tourism, telling people where, in my opinion, they might like to vacation. True travel writers, as I understand it, report on journeys only the daring or foolhardy might be willing to take.

         That I do what I do never was planned. Fresh from the Pulitzer School of Journalism at Columbia University, I came to Mexico City in 1958 with dreams of becoming a foreign correspondent, inspired by Hemingway and films like “Roman Holiday” and “Love is a Many Splendored Thing.” Considering the fate of the protagonists, this may not have been a very bright idea, but the alternative was reporting on sewage board meetings at some small town daily while I gained on-the-job experience. Instead, I found employment at The News, a small newspaper in a big city. I labored there for more than a dozen years, the final six of them as editor.

         From The News, I moved on to become editor of the then new Spanish-language business magazine Expansión. From there I went on to become the foreign correspondent I had dreamed about, first for Copley News Service, then United Press International, next The New York Times, and finally Time-Life. In late 1976, I visited Nicaragua on assignment for Time-Life and within months was employed by a public relations firm to write nice things about Anastasio Somoza. The pay was better than at Time-Life. Much better.

         I lost that job when Somoza lost his, but I managed to keep body and soul together – as well as to support my Mexican family – with various public relations writing assignments. All were related to tourism. Over the years, I had contributed to guide books and written pieces for travel publications. In 1982 (if I remember correctly), Travel Weekly appointed me contributing editor for Mexico with a handsome monthly stipend. Not quite as handsome as what I received from Somoza, but the perks were better. I remained at Travel Weekly until 1995, when the publication, facing financial difficulties, disposed of much of its staff, including me. Happily, by then, I had become known among the travel and tourism press in Mexico. When Reforma instituted a travel section, I was summoned.

         Reforma, which takes its name from the best known avenue in Mexico City, brought from Monterrey to Mexico City a new form of journalism. Editorial space no longer was for sale and reporters were not expected to double as advertising salespeople. Accepting payment from sources – a common practice in Mexico -- was forbidden. This probably is why I was selected as a columnist. Perhaps it was known that I never had accepted a bribe. Perhaps it was unknown that I never had been offered one. In any event, the rules were spelled out: I might not request free transportation or accommodations, although I could accept them if offered. Acceptance did not guarantee publication and any report I wrote should include mentions of any imperfections.

         That said, I am including in this site my column of the week, in English. The Spanish-language version belongs to Reforma. Oh, yes. Why Jimm? Thank AOL and the Internet. When AOL came to Mexico, they asked me to write an on-line travel column for them. Since AOL already had a Jim Budd as a client; they suggested Jimm. And when I went on to get my own domain name, Jim Budd had been taken. Jimm Budd, however, stands alone.


          You get quite a choice of places to stay in Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo and beyond. The local hotel association lists nearly 30 members in Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo alone, and not all hotels are members of the association. Then, too, there are villas and condos that can be rented all the way from Troncones to Barra Potosi. Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are between these two. In Ixtapa, you will find new names on many of the older properties. Las Brisas began as a Camino Real, Barcelo as Sheraton and now the Dorado Pacific has become the first Sunscape, an AMResorts hotel.

          Ixtapa is the younger sister of Cancun, which was the first of the Fonatur Master-Planned Resort Developments. The two siblings resemble each other not at all. Few spring breakers sign up for revelries in Ixtapa. Tranquil and sedate, Ixtapa appeals mostly to families seeking a nice, quiet vacation spot.

          That may be about to change. The previously rutted road up from Acapulco – 230 kilometers distant – is being converted into a four-lane highway, which should bring the Guerrero ports within two or three hours of each other. And the highway down from Lázaro Cárdenas, across the Rio Balsas in Michoacán, is being improved, bringing Ixtapa closer to Morelia and even Guadalajara.

          Curious thing about Ixtapa is that while it was built with the aim of attracting foreign tourists and their dollars, the foreigners seem to prefer Zihuatanejo, although few of them can pronounce it. Zihua, as they call it, looks out on a lovely bay washed by the gentlest of waves. Over in Ixtapa, the surf pounds the beaches to such an extent that red flags warn guests that swimming will be safer in hotel pools.

          Zihuatanejo now is the address of some of the most exclusive and costly lodging on the Pacific Coast. Many of these hideaways share the hills with the ruins of El Parthenon, former villa of Lopez Portillo’s Mexico City police chief Arturo Durazo. The structure is as much a ruin as the original in Greece. Rumors that it was being refurbished for Saadi Qaddafi, apparently were untrue.        

Zihuatanejo long has attracted an eclectic array of characters. Consider ''The Shawshank Redemption,'' the 1984 film in which two convicts daydream of the ultimate good life in Zihua. They finally get there. Residents for a time speculated in which of their neighbors might have inspired the film.

          Foreigners with less shady pasts have been buying a few homes on or near Barra de Potosi, our along Playa Largo and not too far from the airport. The al fresco seaside restaurants have a special appeal. Nowhere will you ever dine on fresher fish. En route to Barra, Antonio Mendez, our guide, brought our group to what I suppose could be called a coconut farm. It proved to be illuminating. Coconuts are good for much more than serving as containers for cocos locos.

          Off in the other direction from Playa Largo is Troncones, one of those “best-kept secrets” that travel writers and guide book authors are fond of revealing. Aside from being what Zihuatanejo used to be, Troncones claims to be the best surfing spot in Mexico. Some argue that Puerto Escondido and Zipolite are better, but we’ll let others slug it out. Sports fishermen like Troncones, too, as do vacationers into eco-touring and yoga.

          If anybody cares, I am more of an Ixtapa kind of guy. Exercise for me is taking an elevator down to the pool with a beach just a few steps beyond.  I enjoyed the refurbished Dorado Pacifico with its new Sunscape name. Yes, the surf makes the Pacific here too rough to swim in, but once you stop to think about all the animals that live in the sea, the pool sounds nicer. True, some children fail to emerge from the water when they need to go to the bathroom; what about fish?.

          While Sunscape is all-inclusive, it does not require guests to wear paper bracelets or sign an indenture to obtain a towel. Guests do not even need to ask for towels, which are laid out and waiting on the lounges by the pool and beneath the palapas on the beach. Disappointing is the way hangers in the closet are designed to thwart thieves and there is a fee for connecting to the Internet, but on vacation the Internet should be forgotten, right? Massages at the spa cost extra, too, but who can complain about that? What I really like about all-inclusives is the way nobody stands around waiting for a tip and how you can finish a meal, get up and walk away without waiting for a check. Something else nice was mentioned by Alejandro Zozaya, big boss at AMResorts, which includes Suncape among its many brands. “In view of the violence we read about all around us, people feel especially secure on the premises of an all-inclusive,” he said recently. “You don’t feel like you are risking your life when you go out for dinner. At Suncape, you never need to leave the premises.”